By the Irawaddy

After our long bus journey, we arrived in Pyey and how pleasant is was to see a big bustling town at night. In Kyauk Phyu very few are out at night. AND there were Muslims milling about I can’t tell you how pleased I was to see them. I was taken aback when I saw the destroyed mosque in Kyauk Phyu and was told that the community (who had been there for a long time) had been sent to some god awful camp outside town. How can I engage in discussions about inclusion with folk who colude in that. I’m having very divirging feelings about the place. People have been very kind and hospitable, but I find some aspects of it very unsavoury. I’ve just deleted something I wrote thinking, my god, if the wrong person read it I could be in trouble!!

Anyway, the Pan Ga Bar is a traditional lodging, which means it’s very basic, not too clean by Western standards, but with the most gracious and helpful host in the world. Although Myanmar is very very cheap, accommodation for foreigners is relatively expensive. It can be hard to find places for less than 70 quid night. As a volunteer thats too much for me.

The dining area at the Pan Ga Bar, where the family prepared their meals and served a great breakfast. Honestly it’s over 20 degrees!!

The foyer😄

Myself with the lovely Mr Win Eyr. I named his Mr Winner. He gave advice, booked bus tickets, drove us to the local Education College and translated for us. He photocopied my passport so I could give it to the bus driver on my overnight trip back on the 31st. That meant I would have to leave the bus 4 times to get it checked going back over the mountains.

Transport

Traditional basketry for modern motor bikes. Motor bikes cost about £300 here, so quite affordable.

Markets

The noodle stall at the night market. For some reason in Myanmar they always use loo roll for napkins. See the blue and yellow dispenser.

Fabric heaven.

Thaneka – lots and lots of people wear it as a sunscreen

Pagodas and Monastries

There are pagodas everywhere and they are wonderful places to visit either early morning or early evening. People are very devout and the monasteries play a huge role in society. Monks are up at 3am then meditate under meditation nets (mossies)for a few hours. Then they go out to collect food which everyone contributes to. Shops, families, businesses. I don’t like to photograph monks as if feels a bit disrespectful. But I see them in lines heading out for donations. Little kid monks as well. The monasteries provide education in their monastic schools. They provide accommodation for orphans and homeless people. They provide medicine for those who can’t afford to pay for it. Essentially they act as the social services. One is expected to make a donation everytime at the Pagoda. It’s also nice to buy an offering. There are the spectacular Pagodas which are covered in gold with beautiful marble paving. There are some really gaudy ones with some Disneyesque plaster casts. There are monumental statues of the Buddha and some beautiful old iron age Stupas in brick. People tend to travel on pilgrimages more than on holidays to famous or important religious sites. They pay indulgences to secure a good future life. Women hope to be reborn as men!! I know it’s a different religious tradition, but I am reminded of the old monastic tradition and church traditions in earlier centuries in Europe. My insight is very superficial though. At college in KP there are prayers and meditation for all students at 6.30pm. I hear them everyday. But my goodness do the monastries like echoey sound systems and loud music. AND bright flashing led lights.

These young women had travelled, I assume quite a way, showered and changed into their glad rags, and are applying some Thaneka before entering the pagoda. A girls day out.

A monumental Buddha.

I have no idea what this represents.

One of the earliest stupas in the country. 6th or 7th century.

The Irawaddy

It’s a big River, but has far less traffic on it than it used to. It’s getting broader a shallower. The two motorways through the centre of Myanmar take the bulk of goods now.

The inevitable sunset!!

I had a lovely time in Pyey and travelled back to KP with a heavy heart. With landmines near and danger going out at night I am going to have to consider my options. Again people were very generous and kind at work today. I know Neil would prefer if I was not in Rakhine. Decisions to be made.